How do you keep new trees alive?

Apply the water to the root ball and the planting area, not to the trunk. Use an open garden hose or a tree watering bag (such as Treegator).

How do you keep new trees alive?

Apply the water to the root ball and the planting area, not to the trunk. Use an open garden hose or a tree watering bag (such as Treegator). Water every 2-3 days and give each plant at least 10-15 gallons of water per week. Does it look like a telephone pole sticking out of the ground, or can you see the area at the base of the trunk where it starts to widen, just above the top of the roots? We call this widening of the trunk, and it is important that the widening of the trunk is above ground level.

If it is buried, the tree will have many problems. Keep in mind that, in many cases, a tree purchased in a container or with balls and burlap will have the trunk flare buried, so you will have to uncover it before planting. Continue watering at this rate until the tree is established (usually well into autumn). Check the soil around your tree (under the mulch layer) between irrigations.

You want it to be damp, but not soaked. A tree needs 10 gallons of water per week for every inch of tree diameter. So, for example, a 2-inch wide sapling will need 20 gallons of water each week. Long and deep watering is better than short and frequent watering.

If you use a soaking hose or a slow drip system, this means at least 2 hours of watering each time. The best option is to remove the grass around a tree (it will make it easier to cut the lawn anyway) and put a layer of organic mulch. To reap the many benefits of mulch, be sure to place it at a distance of 3 to 4 inches from the tree trunk. Any mulch that touches your tree can severely damage it by encouraging rot and facilitating pest attack.

Spread the mulch to a maximum depth of 2 to 4 inches; this is NOT a case of “more, better”. Can be used up to 6 inches around trees, as long as it is not stacked in a volcano) Most of the time, a newly planted tree does not need to be nailed. But, if for some reason you do, be sure to remove bets after one year (two maximum). Allow the tree to grow for at least a full season before considering any corrective pruning.

The tree will need all the energy it can get (from photosynthesis in the leaves) to help it develop a strong root structure. The general rule is that you should continue to provide water to a newly planted tree until its roots are established. That period depends on the size of the tree. The larger the tree at the time of transplantation, the longer it will take to establish a root system and the more water each watering will need.

Chances are that most courtyards in your neighborhood have at least one tree. Trees are beautiful to look at, increase sidewalk appeal and provide relief from heat. In fact, shade from a single tree can reduce surface temperature by up to 45° F, says Environmental Protection Agency. In exchange for everything our tall, leafy friends do for us, it's important that we help them keep them healthy.

Often, the best way to care for trees is to do less, not more, especially when it comes to these common mistakes. A layer of mulch around the trees helps protect them from the mower blades and prevents the soil from drying out. But stacking it like a volcano around the tree traps moisture against the trunk, which can lead to rotting. In addition, when the mulch is too deep, it prevents tree roots from getting the oxygen they need.

Always mulch and not top, says Daniel S. Bauer, arborist and president of Arbor Equity Inc. He recommends using a hardwood mulch, which will slowly break down and provide some nutrients to the soil. Simply keep the mulch layer at a depth of 2 to 3 inches.

To direct growth by slowing down the branches you do not want, or to “dwarf the development of a tree or branch”, pruning should be done soon after the seasonal growth is completed. The farther away from the tree the mulch spreads, the better, as it will help protect the roots as they grow. If your area is constantly facing drought, you'll want to consider that trees are classified as drought tolerant. Once the root system is established, the leaves and growth pattern will take on the appearance of a more mature tree.

It is important to eliminate minor defects of branches at the time of planting, but to delay further pruning of young trees for at least a year. After the first few years, the tree will be installed in its new environment and will need less care, but it is always good to check it from time to time. After you make sure the location really works for your type of tree, make sure you plant it at the right depth. Watering a newly planted tree depends on factors such as how much rainfall it receives in your area, wind conditions, temperatures, the season of the year, and how well the soil drains.

When planting trees and shrubs on lawns, competition for nutrients, water, and space occurs underground between turf roots and woody plant roots. Many of the tree problems that we, as arbolists, encounter come from the wrong tree being planted in the wrong place. By taking care of the trees a little during the cold winter months, you give your new trees the best chance of living. You can also find a tree with Tree Wizard, a free online tool that helps you narrow down your options and select the right tree for the right place.

Fertilization is usually not necessary for a newly transplanted tree because the root systems are not yet developed enough to make the most of it. . .

Hazel Moura
Hazel Moura

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